How to Build a Brick Wall
Advanced · 2–3 days
Bricklaying looks effortless when a mason does it, and that ease is years of practice in reading the level and keeping the mortar consistent. For a DIY garden wall or low boundary wall it's very achievable, but the fundamentals are unforgiving: a solid, level footing, mortar mixed to the right stiffness, and every course checked plumb and level before it sets. Work in small batches — mortar has a working window, and a wall built on a guessed footing will crack.
What you'll need
- Bricks (use the calculator to size the count including mortar joints and waste)
- Mortar mix (type N for most above-grade walls) and clean sand
- A concrete footing below the frost line
- A brick trowel, pointing trowel, and a jointer (striking tool)
- A 4 ft level, mason's line and line blocks, and a story pole or gauge stick
- A mixing tub or wheelbarrow, brick hammer or saw, and a stiff brush
Steps
Pour a level footing
Brick needs a solid, level concrete footing below the frost line and wider than the wall. Let it cure before building — the whole wall's accuracy starts here.
Dry-lay the first course
Set the bottom course of bricks on the footing without mortar, spacing them with your finger or a gauge for the joint width. This tells you how the bricks fall and where you'll need cuts.
Mix the mortar
Mix mortar to a soft, plastic consistency that holds a ridge — workable but not soupy. Mix only what you can lay in 30–45 minutes before it starts to stiffen.
Lay the first course in mortar
Spread a bed of mortar, 'butter' one end of each brick, and set it home, tapping it level and to the line. Check level and plumb constantly — the first course governs everything above it.
Build up the leads (corners) first
Build the ends or corners up a few courses, stepping each course back, and run a mason's line between them. Filling the middle to a taut line keeps the whole wall straight and level.
Stagger the joints
Offset each course so vertical joints don't stack — typically a half-brick offset (running bond). Staggered joints are what give the wall its strength.
Strike the joints and clean up
Once the mortar is thumbprint-firm, tool the joints with a jointer for a clean, water-shedding profile, then brush off crumbs. Tooling at the right moment seals the joint and sets the look.
Pro tips
- Order about 5–10% extra brick for cuts and breakage — the calculator includes mortar-joint coverage and a waste allowance.
- Build the corners (leads) first and run a line between them. Chasing level across a whole course freehand is how walls end up wavy.
- Mix mortar in small batches. It has a 30–45 minute working life, and re-tempering stiff mortar with extra water weakens the bond.
- Tool the joints when the mortar is thumbprint-firm — too soon and it smears, too late and it crumbles instead of compacting.
FAQ
How many bricks do I need for a wall?
A standard modular brick with mortar covers about 6.86 bricks per square foot of wall face. Multiply by the wall area and add waste — the brick calculator does this from your dimensions.
What kind of mortar should I use?
Type N mortar suits most above-grade garden and boundary walls. Type S is stronger for structural or below-grade work. Match the mortar to the load, not stronger-is-better.
Do I need a footing for a brick wall?
Yes. Brick walls need a level concrete footing below the frost line and wider than the wall, or they crack and tilt as the ground moves with the seasons.
Ready to estimate materials? Use the Brick Calculator →