How to Build a Wood Fence
Intermediate · 2–3 days
A wood fence lives or dies on its posts. Get them plumb, evenly spaced, set deep in concrete, and on a straight line, and the rails and pickets fall into place. Rush the posts and every flaw shows for the life of the fence. The other half of the job is courtesy and legality: confirm your property line and check local rules before you dig, because a fence in the wrong spot is an expensive mistake to undo.
What you'll need
- Fence posts, rails, and pickets (use the calculator to size all three)
- Fast-setting concrete mix and gravel for the post holes
- Galvanized or coated fasteners — screws hold better than nails over time
- Post-hole digger or power auger
- String line, line level, post level, and a tape measure
- Circular saw, drill/driver, and a spacer block for picket gaps
Steps
Confirm the line and call 811
Verify your property line (a survey if there's any doubt) and check setback and height rules. Call 811 to locate buried utilities before digging — hitting a gas or power line is a serious hazard.
Mark post locations
Run a tight string between the end posts and mark each post position along it at your spacing (commonly 6–8 ft). Even spacing makes rails and pickets line up cleanly later.
Dig the post holes
Dig each hole about one-third the post height deep and three times the post width — and below the frost line. A few inches of gravel in the bottom lets water drain away from the post end.
Set the posts in concrete
Stand each post, brace it plumb in two directions, and pour fast-setting concrete around it. Crown the concrete above grade so water sheds away. Let it cure before hanging anything.
Mark and attach the rails
With the posts cured, snap or string a level line for the top rail and attach rails between posts (typically two for a 4 ft fence, three for taller). Keep them level even if the ground slopes.
Hang the pickets
Attach pickets to the rails using a spacer block for a consistent gap, checking every few boards with a level so they stay plumb. Follow the ground contour or step the fence on slopes.
Cap, trim, and finish
Add post caps and a trim board if desired, trim any uneven picket tops to a snapped line, then seal or stain the wood to slow weathering and rot.
Pro tips
- Set and cure the two end posts first, then string a line between them — every post in between just touches the string, guaranteeing a straight run.
- Buy a few extra pickets. Some always split, warp, or cup, and a matching spare beats a second trip.
- Leave pickets a couple inches off the ground. Wood wicking moisture from soil contact is the fastest path to rot.
- Stain or seal within a season. Bare wood greys, cracks, and cups far sooner than treated-and-sealed wood.
FAQ
How many fence posts and pickets do I need?
Divide the fence length by your post spacing for sections; posts equal sections plus one. Pickets depend on width and gap. The fence calculator returns posts, rails, and picket count from your run.
How deep should fence posts go?
About one-third of the post's above-ground height, and always below the frost line so they don't heave. A 6 ft fence post is typically set about 2 ft deep in concrete.
What's the best post spacing for a wood fence?
Six to eight feet is standard. Closer spacing makes a stiffer, stronger fence; wider spacing uses fewer posts but flexes more in wind and over time.
Ready to estimate materials? Use the Fence Calculator →