How to Tile a Floor
Advanced · 2–3 days
Tiling rewards planning. The layout — where your first tile lands — determines whether you end up with attractive full tiles in the visible areas and balanced cuts at the edges, or an awkward sliver against the most-seen wall. Setting and grouting are physical but methodical; the real skill is in the dry layout and keeping your lines straight. Work in sections so the thinset doesn't skin over before you set tile into it.
What you'll need
- Floor tile (use the calculator to size tiles and boxes with waste)
- Thinset mortar suited to your tile and substrate
- Notched trowel sized to the tile, plus tile spacers
- Grout (sanded for joints wider than 1/8 in), a float, and grout sponges
- Tile cutter or wet saw for straight cuts; nippers or a hole saw for notches
- Chalk line, tape measure, level, and a bucket + mixing paddle
Steps
Prep the substrate
Tile needs a flat, rigid, clean base — backer board over a solid subfloor for most floors. Fix any flex or movement first; tile cracks where the floor moves.
Find your layout lines
Measure to find the room's center and snap two perpendicular chalk lines. Dry-lay tiles along them to check that edge cuts are balanced, then adjust the start point so you don't end on a thin sliver.
Mix and spread thinset
Mix thinset to a peanut-butter consistency. Spread a workable section with the flat side of the trowel, then comb it into ridges with the notched side held at a consistent angle.
Set the tile
Press each tile into the thinset with a slight twist to collapse the ridges, working out from your center lines. Use spacers for consistent joints and check often with a level that tiles sit flush.
Cut the edge tiles
Measure and cut tiles for the perimeter and around obstacles with a wet saw or cutter. Leave the same expansion gap at the walls that you'll hide under baseboard.
Let it set, then grout
Let the thinset cure (usually 24 hours) before grouting. Pull the spacers, then work grout into the joints with a float held at 45 degrees, packing them full.
Clean and seal
Wipe excess grout with a damp sponge, rinsing often, and buff off the haze once it dries. After the grout cures, seal it (and any natural-stone tile) to resist stains and moisture.
Pro tips
- Order 5–10% extra tile (more for diagonal patterns) for cuts and breakage, and keep spares for future repairs — the calculator builds in this waste.
- Always start from a centered line, never from a wall. Walls are rarely straight, and starting there throws the whole floor off.
- Mix the notched-trowel size to the tile: bigger tiles need deeper notches for full thinset coverage and no hollow spots.
- Don't walk on the floor for 24 hours after setting, and check a few tiles for full mortar contact as you go to avoid weak, hollow-sounding spots.
FAQ
How many tiles do I need?
Divide the floor area by the coverage of one tile, then add 5–10% for waste and cuts. The tile calculator handles the math from your room and tile dimensions.
Where should I start laying tile?
From the center of the room, working outward along two perpendicular reference lines. This keeps full tiles in the visible field and pushes cut tiles to the edges evenly.
Do I need to seal grout?
Cement-based grout should be sealed after it cures to resist stains and moisture, especially in wet areas. Epoxy grout doesn't require sealing.
Ready to estimate materials? Use the Tile Calculator →